How to wear colour
This following piece formed the basis of an article I worked on for Carina Rossi, Lifestyle Editor at Nine; the questions are those she asked me, alongside my responses.
What’s the main thing people get wrong about colour when it comes to dressing?
Thinking that black is the solution to everything! It’s really not.
Black is a heavy, cool and bold colour. If your colouring is deep, strong and bright then it can look really great on you but if your colouring is pale, light and delicate, black will overpower you.
If you’re worried about looking tired, note that black casts shadows upwards onto the face and neck, which can seem to drain the colour from us. It can also amplify any fleshy softness around the neck and jawline, if that’s a concern.
Colours that add radiance to us by working with (and not against) our natural colouring always look better.
Should people be matching their colours to their outfit? Or to their skin tone?
Both! If you dress in outfits that work (harmonise) with your skin tone, then you can’t help but look radiant.
Then if you continue with that colour theme, anything else you add to your basic outfit, such as accessories or extra layers, will all work together.
The colours you choose don’t need to match in terms of all being the same, but they do need to harmonise unless you are deliberately choosing to clash, which is definitely a trend but is not for everyone. If you like the clashing colours look, there are still ways of doing it well and less well.
In general, the key to combining any colours well in your outfit is to develop a palette of colours that both complement each other and that ensure you are the feature of your outfit, not the support act. If you understand a bit about colour theory, say from having studied art, you will know what to do. If you don’t know where to begin, I’d recommend getting yourself a colour analysis. Or if you’re after a cheaper option, I’ve written a book to guide people through how to DIY this.
Does hair colour come into play too, when it comes to finding colours to wear that suit?
Absolutely. Hair, skin tone and eyes are the three things to consider when finding colours to suit you.
The emphasis of each can vary, depending on the proportions of each within your body. For example, if you have long hair or voluminous hair, then your hair colour will be a more important part of the equation than if you have short, thin or minimal hair.
Eyes take up far less real estate than skin, so will be less important if you’re choosing something to wear on stage. However if you’re choosing an outfit to wear online, then eye colour is important as they will become more of a focus.
What are your thoughts on colour trends? Any advice for consumers when trying to decide whether to follow a colour trend…?
I love colour trends because they offer us new options to consider! But I don’t endorse buying a colour just because it’s on trend. Again, the key is to determine what works for you and working within your colour framework.
That might sound restrictive but it’s really not because there are millions of colours to choose from and thousands that will suit you. Educating yourself about the characteristics of colour will enable you to choose the ones that are the best for you. I love teaching people about colour theory so they walk away more empowered and confident about choosing colours that look great on them.
I recommend buying up when a colour you love to wear comes onto the market because the trend may not last beyond a season or two. If you are happy to wear that colour regardless of whether it’s on trend, buy it when you can and wear it for as long as it makes you feel good.
If you’re keen to appear on trend with colour even if it doesn’t suit you or doesn’t go with other things in your wardrobe, you can wear that colour in a bag, purse, bangle or watch; in other words, away from your face and in smaller portions.
Is there a colour that suits every skin tone?
There are a few colours that suit everyone. They are those special colours that are a balance of all the colour elements: deep, light, bright, soft, warm and cool. These are sometimes referred to as universal colours.
My favourite of these colours is a warm blue. Warm blues are special because they have elements of both warm and cool within them. A classic blue is a cool colour but if we add a tiny portion of yellow into it, it warms it up. A lighter version of a warm blue is turquoise and a deeper version is teal.
Teal is an especially versatile colour. If you’re buying a gift and you’re not sure about what colour to get, teal is a great option as it goes with so much. No-one looks awful in teal, though some people look especially good.
What are your tips for people trying to determine if a colour suits them or not? Any tricks you can share?
Wearing your eye colour always works. It will make your eyes pop and draw attention to them. It’s a no brainer colour to begin with if you want to create your own colour palette.
Another really great trick is to determine if a colour enhances you or dominates you. Try this:
wear the colour facing a mirror
close your eyes for around 10 seconds
open your eyes and ask yourself; do you see the colour first or your face?
If you see the colour first, it’s likely to be too strong for you. If you see your face first then it is probably good, assuming you look healthy and not drained.
By training your eye over time you will begin to see if your complexion looks healthy, clear, tired, muddy or rough in different colours.
Are there any colour ‘rules’ people need to follow? For example: “blue and green should never be seen without a colour in between”, or are these allowed to be broken?
I don’t believe in style rules as such. I love that these days, we have much more freedom than people had in the past when hemlines had to be a certain length etc.
But there are certainly guidelines and I do believe in thinking about how you want to present and understanding the messages your outfit (or colour choice) is conveying. Here are just a few:
1. Colour combinations can have an impact. The classic black or navy with white looks formal and authoritative for example. So it’s an appropriate combination for a meeting but less good if you’re going on a first date and want to make a connection.
2. Likewise, with whether you’re embracing colour clashing or prefer harmony. Clashing is considered edgy and might be distracting or disturbing for some people you meet, whereas harmonious colours never look out of place, regardless of how edgy your outfit is.
3. Consider the proportions of colour you use. It looks more interesting to have a colour ratio of 70 / 30 for example, than 50 / 50. Perhaps your dress (largest part of your outfit) is the 70% colour and your smaller accessories comprise the 30%.
4. Unless you’re deliberately clashing colours (which does require skill to look really effective) then choose colours that are the same temperature; warm with warm and cool with cool.
When we met you mentioned how white isn’t necessarily a colour that suits everyone… how can women pick a classic white shirt to suit their tone? What’s your advice?
White is cool, clear and bright. It’s not easy for everyone to wear white. Similar shades for people with warmer and / or softer colouring include ivory or cream. Or even a soft grey, barely there mint or whisper of pink could still look classic yet enable someone to look less unwell!
If you must wear white and want to bridge the gap between it and you, try adding a silk scarf or coloured necklace in a colour you know works for you so the white looks less stark. Alternatively, a coloured tank under the shirt to make it look less white or a blazer over the top in a colour that really suits you will help.
Need help putting colours together but yet ready for a Colour Analysis? Check out these Go-to colour combos to make dressing easy.
